“I take another step closer. The water shines; its shimmering surface reflects dancing sun rays on the golden sand. I test the water; the cool liquid sends chills up my spine. I take another step. The waves form together, tumbling and rolling, crashing down onto the shore. I move on through the water, the sea is so crystal clear.

The water is waist deep now, and the waves come faster, higher and stronger. I pull the board behind me, watch enchanted as the hard plastic moves smoothly over the bumpy surface. The waves keep coming, taller than before, knocking over everyone in its path down.

I’m sucked under, the waters depths pulling me down. The waves wash over my head; I can hear a slight splash of water droplets, flying off the rolling waves. I push up, holding on to my board. The sun’s glare reflects off the water, stinging my eyes as I emerge from the seas watery depths.

Sliding onto my board, I paddle hard, rising above the oncoming waves. The water ripples, the waves tumble. Turning the board around, I wait. I watch the gentle movement of the sea around me, listen to the roaring waves coming behind me, the echoing voice of a seagull flows through the air. A sea weed sways backwards and forwards in the damp grainy sand below.  I feel the water rushing behind me, now’s my chance. I paddle hard, toes on the end of the board. I can feel the wave pick me up; the white froth of a tidal wave splashes out all around me. I can feel the wave push me; I push up on my board, keeping my hands by my waist.

The wave thunders toward the beach. I get onto my knees. The water rushes into rock pools ahead, creating a white frothy pillow. I rise, placing both my feet in the centre of the board, turning on my side. Legs hip length apart. I let go of the board slowly, catching my balance, steadying my stance. I spread my arms out, as if I was flying through the air. The wave still carries me, the water cradling me on my journey to the shore.

I feel so free riding the waves. The gentle warm breeze flows around me, the hot sun stares down from the sky, warming up the water, the air, the sand. I can taste the salty sea spray in the wind; hear the whispering of leaves from far away. I reach shore, the wave whips around me before plummeting down onto the beach, creating a white frothy watery mass.”

By Emily, Rosebud Secondary College